I'm really interested in learning more about UX, but am held back by having almost no design or development skills (just really basic html/css). What's the best way to start off in the field?

Exactly what UX 'is' seems to actually be really hard to define, with no right or wrong answers, I guess it's whats right for any particular user at any particular time. (Great specific answer right??)

However, I don't necessarily think that lack of design / development skills are a barrier to entry at all, you just need your mouth, your ears, your eyes, a pen and some paper. With these tools you can at least start researching UX, interviewing users, brainstorming with them, and sketching ideas out.  Draw out prototypes with bits of paper representing each screen asking people where they would click to move toward their goal, sort of like one of the old 'Choose your own Adventure books' :)

Of course, if you've got a wider skillset you can perhaps foresee stuff that's definitely impossible, or wouldn't work a certain way or whatever, but if anything the interaction with your users and working together to come up with ideas for a project is the most fun part. You'd then have the added luxury of passing the coding over to someone else to pull their hair out to!